An accessible Iceland adventure

Nick Fowler reports on visiting Iceland as a wheelchair user

If you have MS, the idea of a holiday combining fire and ice may not sound appealing. But I have always felt an instinctive pull towards Iceland, and my wife Diane decided the time was right. We travelled with Diane’s cousin and her partner Erica, along with friends Stuart and Peter.

Our Tuesday afternoon flight from Manchester was uneventful. We flew with easyJet from Gatwick to Reykjavik, and the only challenge was the self check-in, not the easiest task from a wheelchair.

Diane had booked seats in row two, as I can still transfer at the plane door from the ambulift and make my way to my seat using walls, seats and the occasional helping hand.

When disability services arrived, I was placed on an electric vehicle and taken to the plane. Cue the Jaws theme in my head as I realised I would be boarding from the back.

I am not a fan of the aisle seat. You are strapped in like a tandem parachute jump as you are pushed from row 48 to row two. But we got there, I transferred, and it was next stop Reykjavik.

Reykjavik airport is small but well proportioned. We were collected at the front of the plane and my wheelchair was waiting for me. A good start.

Hotel and getting around

We had pre-booked a transfer to the Hotel Reykjavik Saga, a four-star hotel in the city centre. Diane had also arranged a mid-size mobility scooter to give me more independence around town. It was waiting at reception when we arrived, and I transferred straight onto it.

The cost for four days was around £175. Our room was accessible, with handrails, a walk-in shower and enough space for a three-point turn. Perfect.

First night in Reykjavik

For our first evening, Diane and Erica had found an accessible Italian restaurant. After a celebratory drink in the hotel bar, we headed into town.

Following a chilly walk for them and a chilly scooter ride for me, we arrived at Grazie Trattoria. It was fully accessible, with excellent toilet facilities. The food was superb, the wine flowed, and coffee rounded off the night nicely.

Iceland is expensive. We knew this, but a simple meal for five, including drinks, came to £300.

Touring Iceland

We had booked a private two-day tour with a vehicle fitted with a drive-in ramp. Our guide Karl and driver Henning collected us from the hotel at 9am on Wednesday.

I drove the scooter up the ramp and transferred to a seat, and we set off for Thingvellir National Park. I toured the park by scooter, even driving between the tectonic plates.

From there, we visited the Fridheimar tomato farm for lunch. The greenhouse was incredibly bright, sunglasses were essential, and accessibility was excellent throughout.

Next came Gullfoss waterfall. Not quite Niagara, but breathtaking all the same. From there we headed to the Haukadalur geothermal area. Despite the bitter cold, we watched the main geyser erupt three times, a powerful and beautiful sight.

Exploring the city

Thursday was our own day to explore Reykjavik. We headed up Rainbow Street to Hallgrimskirkja, the city’s striking church, before making our way to the harbour.

Our first stop was FlyOver Iceland, which is accessible by scooter. The experience ends with a simulated flight across the country. I transferred into a seat for the ride, which cannot be done in a wheelchair, and I can honestly say it was stunning. At £40 per person, it was well worth it.

Next was the Lava Show. The name does not do it justice. Real molten lava flowed before us as Ian, a brilliant Scottish host and former geography teacher, explained the science with humour and flair. At £30 per person, it was unforgettable.

Chasing the northern lights

That evening we joined a late-night aurora borealis cruise. Although advertised as disability-friendly, the steep, poorly lit ramp to the ship was challenging. With Stuart and Peter guiding me down, we made it aboard in good spirits.

Getting onto the ship involved lifting me and my scooter, and I soon realised the scooter would not fit inside the cabin. I stayed on deck for the two-hour trip, limiting my fluid intake as the toilets were inaccessible.

We enjoyed the experience, but it would be difficult for anyone with significant mobility needs. Sadly, the northern lights did not appear.

The Blue Lagoon

On Friday we visited the Blue Lagoon. It is wonderfully inclusive, with water aids and floats for wheelchair users. Unfortunately, a badly cut leg meant I could not enter the water, so I watched from the restaurant area with a drink while the others enjoyed the experience.

Henning brought me a piece of lava rock, and I spent the time reading my book, Life Is a Hotel. He even skim-read it himself and was genuinely interested in my thoughts on life being like a hotel stay.

Heading home

After lunch at a Chinese restaurant in Reykjavik, we returned to the hotel. My scooter was collected at 6pm, and our taxi to the airport became a singalong, complete with the driver handing me his phone to choose the music.

As the airport came into view, we finished one of the driver’s favourite renditions of Bohemian Rhapsody.

The journey home was smooth, with helpful staff throughout. With Freddie Mercury still ringing in our ears and the words “any way the wind blows”, we returned home after a truly memorable trip.

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